3 Things You MUST DO to Grow Your Martial Arts School

There are 3 things you must do every week - and sometimes every day in every class - to make sure your martial arts school thrives. Those 3 things are:
Bring in new students Retain the students you have Get more from your students

Chuck Drill

It is critical to the survival of your school that you block off time every week to focus on these 3 things. This might be 1 hour or 1 day. It might be to create a new class, new marketing program or for education in martial arts management to make sure you are growing as a martial arts school owner.

Chuck Drill

Marketing

You should be setting aside time every week to work on growing your school. This does not mean you have to create a brand new marketing plan every week. One week each month you can focus on education. Just like learning martial arts - you are constantly learning new things, right? The same applies to marketing. Pick up a book, read a blog, read the business section of the newspaper. You have to learn the basics and continue to learn and grow in marketing as well.

Student Retention

Student retention is vital to any martial arts school. If you get 3 new students but 4 leave then you have not just gone back by a count of 1 you've actually gone back by 4 because had you retained those students you would now have a total of 7 students. Each week you should be doing things to ensure your students are going to stay in your program as long as possible. This could be sending out birthday cards, writing a school newsletter, offering special workshops, learning more about the student and their family to build a stronger relationship, the list is almost endless.

Internal Marketing

The last item, internal marketing, is one that is often forgotten. Yet it is critically important. What most small business owners, and most martial arts school owners, fail to understand is that it takes a whole lot more effort and money to find a new client then it does to sell again to an existing client. To get a new student you must spend a lot of time and money finding them and convincing them that your school is what they are looking for and need. It takes much less time and money to sell your current students on a Saturday workshop, or sell them a T-shirt, or get them to take private lessons.

You Are Not Alone

You do not have to take on these tasks all by yourself. There are many places you can get information to cut down your learning curve or save time and money by using existing materials. You can get books on marketing, you can ask other martial arts school owners what they do, you can join online forums in places like LinkedIn, or fan pages on FaceBook, you can purchase materials from martial arts business or management companies.

International Martial Arts Management Systems, (IMAMS) is one such place. We offer a system that is created of training modules that consistently brings in 4, 5, maybe 10 students every month. We have modules for student retention and many many ways to help you with internal marketing.

To learn about the first and only No Membership Membership program in the Martial Arts Business Industry Click Here. PS It's FREE!

3 Things You MUST DO to Grow Your Martial Arts School
Chuck Drill

Black Friday Ingersoll-Rand 7802RAKC Heavy Duty 3/8-Inch Reversible Pnuematic Drill With Keyless Chuck 2011 Deals

Nov 18, 2011 08:26:30

Black Friday Ingersoll-Rand 7802RAKC Heavy Duty 3/8-Inch Reversible Pnuematic Drill With Keyless Chuck Deals
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Forrest vs Shogun - Can Forrest Griffin Win?

Forrest Griffin and Mauricio Shogun Rua face off on September 22nd in Shogun's UFC debut. This is certainly not an easy fight for either combatant, but does Forrest Griffin really have a chance to win?

Chuck Drill

Forrest Griffin won the first season of the Ultimate Fighter reality season in an epic battle with Stephan Bonnar and mixed martial arts has never been the same. This was really the first time that a great fight was available, and watched, by a large audience on free TV. The people loved it and the UFC's popularity grew enormously.

Chuck Drill

Since that fight, Griffin has battled some big names in the light heavyweight division, including Tito Ortiz, Keith Jardine, Elvis Sinosic and Stephan Bonnar again. Griffin defeated both Sinosic and Bonnar, put on a good show against Ortiz (maybe even a draw), but lost badly to Keith Jardine. The Jardine fight was particularly interesting as Jardine was able to TKO Griffin even though we've seen many times before that Forrest Griffin has a good chin and doesn't mind getting hit. I'd even say he usually fights better when he's a bit bloodied up, just look at his fights with Ortiz and Bonnar as examples of this.

Mauricio Shogun Rua has faced almost every light heavyweight worth fighting in the Pride organization, with the sole exception of his Chute Box team mate Wanderlei Silva. To say that Shogun has had success is somewhat of an understatement. He has a dominant win over current UFC light heavyweight champion Quinton Jackson and wins over big names like Kevin Randleman, Ricardo Arona, Alistair Overeem and Antonio Rogerio Nogueira (little Nog). He lost a match to Mark Coleman in 2006, but only because he suffered a broken arm after coming down on a bad angle during a slam.

Mauricio Rua has an aggressive style. He quite simply overwhelms his opponents with vicious strikes and kicks. He has won 12 out of his last 13 fights, 10 of them in the 1st round and 9 by KO or TKO. If you're wondering if he has the cardio to go into later rounds, consider that he won a three round fight over Antonio Rogerio Nogueira by decision. Cardio for Shogun is not an issue, in fact it is one of the reasons that he can go all out and not worry about what he's got left for later in the fight.

First of all, I don't believe that Forrest will win this fight. When facing top competition, Shogun has a much better record, not just winning, but winning decisively. That said, Shogun's aggression can be his Achilles' heel. Sometimes he over extends himself and commits to bad situations. Usually, this works out for Shogun because he is so talented, but I can see where a Chuck Liddell could take advantage of this and knock Shogun out. Unfortunately for Forrest, he is not a knockout artist. He likes to stand and bang, but he hit Tito and Bonnar for a total of 9 rounds and didn't knock either out.

On the ground, I don't think that the story gets any better for Forrest. Sure he has submitted guys like Bill Mahood, but Shogun is a completely different animal. He trains in Brazil, along with his other Chute Box team mates. There is a reason why the B in BJJ is for Brazil and I have my doubt that Forrest will catch Shogun in a submission.

So the only way I can see Forrest Griffin winning this fight is by decision. Forrest showed us in his last fight, against Hector Ramirez, that he's able to stick with a game plan and win a fight from the outside using good boxing. He will need to do this against Shogun to be successful. He will need to establish his jab early and keep Shogun at a distance to have any chance of winning this fight.

Sadly, Shogun just doesn't let his opponents do that. Ask Alistair Overeem, a good striker who gave Chuck Liddell a run in their fight early. Shogun had some trouble with Alistair early, but eventually he was able to get the upper hand and defeat him with punches on the ground.

I've waited a long time to see Mauricio Shogun Rua fight in the UFC. I want to see him take on the likes of Chuck Liddell, Tito Ortiz and yes, Forrest Griffin. I'd love to see a rematch with Quinton Jackson, or how about avenging his brother "Ninja"'s loss to Dan Henderson. One thing is for sure, the UFC light heavyweight division is stacked. It's a great time to be an MMA fan!

Forrest vs Shogun - Can Forrest Griffin Win?
Chuck Drill

Black Friday Makita 763198-1 Keyless Chuck 2011 Deals

Nov 17, 2011 10:30:21

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Black Friday Makita 763198-1 Keyless Chuck Feature

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How To Choose And Use A Router

The router is basically a simple portable tool, consisting of a very high-speed motor mounted vertically on a horizontal base plate. In this article I'll cover the types of routers available as well as the safe way to use them.

Chuck Drill

Parts Of The Router

Chuck Drill

Motor - High-speed; oil bearings often in accordance with the owners manual.

Switch - Turns router on and off.

Adjusting Collar - Used to lock bit or cutter to cut at a desired depth. A good idea is to always do a practice cut first.

Collet Nut - Used to tighten the bit into place.

Bit - The business end of the router; should be straight and sharp.

Base - Level surface on which the unit stands. Wax occasionally for friction-free movement.

Collet - Holds the bit. Keep it free of dirt and woo d chips.

Handles - Grasp firmly when using.

The router has a chuck on the lower edge of its shaft that holds keen-edged cutting bits that can be extended below the base to cut grooves, trim edges, form recesses, produce mouldings, and otherwise shapes wood on which the router is used.

The power of the routers motor determines how deep and how fast the tool can cut through wood. A low-powered router, however, can do many of the jobs a high-powered router can do, providing it does them in stages. It can make a deep cut, for example, by means of a number of shallow passes.

The router, with its cutter bit operating, may be lowered into the work from above, then moved along the path to be shaped or cut, or it may move into the work from the edge. The bits are set for depth of cut by an adjustment on the router body.

If the bit is to make a large recess, as in a meat platter, it may be mounted on a piece of plywood with the cutter projecting downward through a hole in the plywood support. Or you can buy accessories that enable the router to follow templates or guiding edges on the work,

Using The Router

Grooving - Use straight bit. Set depth. Adjust router guide or straightedge at desired width. If work is narrow, clamp extra pieces on both sides to make the base wider.

Dadoing - A cut across the width of a board is called a dado. It is used to make slots for shelves.

Rabbeting - Use straight bit. Set depth. If end and edge are to be cut, do the end first (across the grain) to prevent edge chipping. Make large rabbets with several passes of the bit.

Plunging - Can use a variety of bits designed just for the purpose of cutting a hole in wood. This technique is commonly used to cut holes in door blanks.

With some experience, you will be able to cut designs freehand or even write your name.

As motor shaft, chuck, and bit revolve clockwise, you should move the tool from left to right. For safety remember that the router shaft and bit turn at extremely high speed and cut very fast. Be sure the bit is locked tightly in the chuck, and always keep your fingers clear of it. Never change bits or cutters or make adjustments unless the cord is disconnected (if you are using a cordless router simply remove the battery). Merely switching the tool off is not enough, as switches can be accidentally bumped and turned on.

That's all there is to it for now. I hope you have a better idea of how to pick and use a router. Choose the tool to suit your usage needs and above all be safe while operating it. In my next article I'll cover some of the different router bits, their purposes, and how to change them.

How To Choose And Use A Router
Chuck Drill

Black Friday Industrial Drill Chuck Key Tool with 5/16 Inch Pilot 2011 Deals

Nov 16, 2011 12:56:39

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Black Friday Industrial Drill Chuck Key Tool with 5/16 Inch Pilot Overview

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The Onboard Toolbox

As all boat owners are probably aware, simply owning the boat is the first base goal: Next, if you don't want the thing to collapse gently around you and finally sink, you have got to keep it in good order. In other words, you have to maintain it. Usually, the end result is that the boat stays safe and keeps going, a bit like your car.

Chuck Drill

Whilst the word 'maintenance' is synonymous with 'work' there is usually the hard way to approach it or the easy way. The hard way is to grovel around in the dark, without the proper gear, using a kitchen knife to attempt to undo a screw that has been screwed tight enough to stop the undercarriage dropping off a Jumbo jet! This will not do. We have to be fully prepared for most scenarios and this is where a bloody good logical, sensible, onboard tool kit comes into the picture. I might add here, the emphasis is onboard. Not under any circumstances, to be taken ashore, to double up as gear for fixing the lawnmower or, God forbid, the fridge. This primary 'piece of equipment' may save you and your boat at some point in the future so it must always be at arm's reach, night and day, a friend in need, as it were.

Chuck Drill

If you were to take any two boats in a marina and do a spot check on their tool kits you may be in for a shock. All owners appear to have differing priorities when it comes to D.I.Y. onboard. Remember too, we learn as we live. If you see something that might save your bacon on a terrible night, buy it and add it to the stash without a second thought.

SOME BASICS (NOT NECESSARILY IN ORDER OF PRIORITY!)

Lighting - A rechargeable torch from someone like 'Kambrook' with thousands of candlepower units that can light every corner with stunning brilliance...even in daylight.

More lighting! - A 'miners lamp' type of headset torch can leave the hands free even in rough weather for tricky jobs.

Knife - A good sharp knife is a must. It matters not if the blade folds or is open, as long as it can cut well. A device for sharpening the blade is a must, like a Swiss tungsten steel 'Istor' for example (To be found in good hardware stores).

Scissors - In fact several different sizes, some throwaway, some good steel, they come in handy for all sorts of things and cut wire in a pinch.

Pliers - I like electrician's heavy-duty, insulated handles with cutting blades made from good steel. They are expensive but invaluable. A good back up are needle nose pliers at least four inches long.

Screwdrivers - Every one has a screwdriver on board, don't they? Trouble is, they are always too long, too short, bent and covered in grease or paint. Get a full-boxed set, flat bladed and Philips head and make sure they are at least 'Stanley' quality. Some people like reversible bladed types but beware the 'Taiwan terrors' that melt on contact with a screw head. Oh oh! Don't forget a small set of watchmaker's screwdrivers for those maddenly tiny screws that live in the back of electronic gear.

Hammers - Four different hammers are a priority. A nylon/rubber headed type for inflicting blows without damage, a small ball peen 'toffee hammer' type and a pointed 'ice pick' or welder's hammer for rust and scale. The last is a good heavy sensible hammer for serious thumping when required.

Vice Grips - Two pairs, one eight inch, good quality stainless and a small pair of needle nosed type for awkward corners. Don't be tempted to buy cheapo here, you will always regret the decision later.

Wrenches or adjustable spanners - Two or three types needed here. Cheapos wear quickly and allow play to ruin the holding quality of these tools. Two roughly the same size allow a nut and bolt to be undone. One really large one is handy for unexpected jobs such as loosening a tightening the gland nut on the stern tube or even the prop nut.

Drills - Two types here. One a cordless drill with a charger. Always use a keyless chuck. A drill without a chuck key is about as useless as the Titanic with an outboard motor. Note: If you have a cordless drill that the battery has died on, you can revive it by soldering two wires, positive and negative, onto the two battery terminals inside the drill handle. These wires can incorporate two alligator clips and be attached to a battery and the drill be used anywhere. Ensure the leads are at least a metre long. Finally, a decent set of metal twist drills with at least two spare small size drills should complete the set up for drilling. You can, if room allows, bring a hand drill for emergency use.

Spanners - It always seems like you have never got enough of the things. Ring spanners, metric and imperial, good quality, on a folding roll.

Electrical nylon ties - What a great invention these things are! Ensure you have several sizes from 30 cms to 5 cms long. They are lifesavers for just about every job where things need to be secured either permanently or temporarily. A quick snip with the pliers frees them instantly. I actually invested five bucks on a packet of 're-usable' ones but the ones I bought from Bunnings actually work loose... a great idea, but no cigar this time!

Adhesives - Several types are a must. Super glue tubes, at least two or three. A tube of silicon or similar. Also a tube of 3M 5200 marine glue. I have also found that the two-pack waterproof epoxy all purpose 'knead it' by Selleys is superb for all kinds of quick repairs. Especially in wet areas, it will even cure underwater... a must! (Note: They have several in their 'knead it' range so make sure you get the one that states AQUA for wet areas).

Tape - Masking tape, electrical, brown parcel tape and self-amalgamating tape for those 'must be dry' jobs.

Axe - A good axe for severing ropes, cables and breaking free in an emergency.

Lubricant - A can of grease and a can of moisture displacing lubricant like WD40. Also a small jar of petroleum jelly for such jobs as reluctant 'O' rings and hose pipes.

Hose Clamps - A plastic box bull of various size stainless steel hose clamps... as many as you can afford.

Electrical requirements - These can be many and varied but you can't go wrong with the basics. Good quality electrical connectors and crimping tools pay huge dividends in the long term reliability. A good pair of 'side cutters' with insulated handles for all size cables is also important for quick and efficient repairs. Red and black electrical cables (different amperages) and the means to solder them is really important, especially if cruising. A small butane or propane soldering torch (refillable) is advisable. Don't forget heat shrink tubing for waterproof joins and it is really important that an electrical 'multimeter' be purchased and a good book on how to identify and fix onboard electrical problems. (Don Casey's book on boat electrics called 'Sailboat Electrics Simplified' published by International Marine - McGraw Hill available from Boatbooks, (Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne would be a good guide). A working knowledge of how to understand and fix basic electrical faults could be the difference between disaster and success on any offshore trip. Also, don't forget the soldering wire, self fluxing is good for fast, efficient joins.

Today we are lucky to have access to really good cheap 240/12 volt invertors to run your power tools. The usual power tools can be carried onboard but we won't go into too much detail in this article about what to carry. Number one on my list however, would be an angle grinder/sander.

Hardware - This can vary enormously but should contain some of the following:

· Stainless wood screws (assorted)

· Stainless nuts, bolts and washers (assorted)

· Stainless split pins (assorted)

· Spare small size drills

· Fuses (if applicable)

· Bulbs for lights and torches

· Files, metal and assorted (needle files too)

· Iron or steel wire

· Plastic spring clips (large and small)

· G-clamps (assorted sizes)

Before you start writing.....I know that each and every person may have priorities but I have left to the very end two additions to the above so they may stick in your mind. One is a total must, the other a luxury, but nevertheless, worthy of note.

The absolute must is a set of serious bolt cutters for disengaging fallen rigging along with a good hacksaw and blades.

The luxury item that I love above all is my variable speed, Ryobi and Bosch grinder and sander. I can say they have saved me more time and effort sanding, cutting and repairing boats that I care to think of.....

Your onboard tool kit is more than a convenience, it is a total number one priority to be treated with respect and care. Ask a mate of mine, Kenny, who foolishly balanced his tool kit on the coaming whilst he unlocked a hatch after a break down at sea. After realising what the huge splash was, Kenny drifted for two days until he was discovered by chance. Kenny (whose box of tea bags went down with the tools) ruefully recalls that "Most people don't realise you can get fifteen cups of tea from a used tea bag"..... Personally, I think he was lucky, very lucky!

If you liked the cut of this article and would like Terry to write one for your magazine or newsletter simply contact http://www.dolphinboatplans.com or if you would like to read similar articles go to http://www.ezinearticles.com

The Onboard Toolbox
Chuck Drill

Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit 2011 Deals

Nov 15, 2011 16:28:38

Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit Deals
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Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit Feature

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Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit Overview

DEWALT's DC970K-2 18-volt cordless 1/2-inch compact drill driver kit is perfect for anyone looking for a compact tool capable of drilling and driving in tight spaces that other tools cannot reach. The lightweight design of the DC970K-2 makes it extremely comfortable to use. Despite the compact design, this drill/driver makes no sacrifice of power and also features a 1/2-inch single-sleeve keyless ratcheting chuck for convenient and superior bit retention. The high-performance motor delivers maximum power of 380 unit watts out, the dual speed range of 0-450/0-1500 rpm delivers optimal performance, and the lightweight design (5.2 pounds) minimizes user fatigue. This kit includes the DC970K-2 18-volt cordless 1/2-inch compact drill driver, two 18-volt NI-cad batteries, a one-hour charger, and a carrying case.



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Ingersoll-Rand 7802RAKC Heavy Duty 3/8-Inch Reversible Pnuematic Drill With Keyless Chuck

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Nov 14, 2011 20:04:05

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DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit

Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit 2011 Deals

Nov 13, 2011 23:17:29

Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit Deals
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DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit

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Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit Feature

  • Compact size fits into the tightest conditions
  • Lightweight design (5.2 pounds) minimizes user fatigue
  • High performance motor delivers maximum power of 380 unit watts out
  • Dual speed range, 0-450/0-1,500 rpm, delivers optimal performance
  • 1/2-inch single sleeve key-less ratcheting chuck for tighter bit grip


Black Friday DEWALT DC970K-2 18-Volt Drill/Driver Kit Overview

DEWALT's DC970K-2 18-volt cordless 1/2-inch compact drill driver kit is perfect for anyone looking for a compact tool capable of drilling and driving in tight spaces that other tools cannot reach. The lightweight design of the DC970K-2 makes it extremely comfortable to use. Despite the compact design, this drill/driver makes no sacrifice of power and also features a 1/2-inch single-sleeve keyless ratcheting chuck for convenient and superior bit retention. The high-performance motor delivers maximum power of 380 unit watts out, the dual speed range of 0-450/0-1500 rpm delivers optimal performance, and the lightweight design (5.2 pounds) minimizes user fatigue. This kit includes the DC970K-2 18-volt cordless 1/2-inch compact drill driver, two 18-volt NI-cad batteries, a one-hour charger, and a carrying case.



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Steps To Drill Stainless Steel Sheets

Stainless steel have a tendency to "work-harden", due to which drilling such metallic sheets gets very difficult. This normally happens while either cutting or drilling or bending the metal, the heat that is generated hardens it. Usually heat generated while drilling causes the steel sheets to harden faster than any other type of metal work.

Chuck Drill

There are ways to drill stainless steel sheets, especially those which have been work-hardened. With the help of controlled buildup of heat and using proper drill bit that is designed to be used on harder metals, the drilling work can get quite easy. Here are the steps to drill hardened metal sheets:

Chuck Drill

1. First of all, choose a cobalt drill bit that matches the required hole size in the chuck of a drill motor.

2. Next would be to coat the surface of stainless steel sheets and the tip or the end of the drill machine with cutting fluid. This fluid is a kind of lubricant that is primarily used for machine processes and metal work.

3. The most important step is how to run the drill motor effectively. Set the end of the drill bit on the surface of the metallic sheet and push it firmly. Then push the trigger of the machine to slowly turn the drill bit. However, ensure that there is no smoke coming out from the drilling area. In case you see smoke then apply further cutting fluid to the area. After the process is over, lighten the pressure from the machine and slowly remove the drill bit from the surface of the steel sheets.

4. Then apply the same cutting fluid to the tip of countersink drill bit which needs to be attached to the drill motor. Put the tip into the drilled hole and quickly tap the trigger of the drill machine to clear the bur around the edge of the hole.

5. Finally, wipe off the cutting fluid from the surface of the sheet.

Stainless steel sheets are used extensively in a number of industries.

Steps To Drill Stainless Steel Sheets
Chuck Drill

Black Friday 1/32"-1/2" VME Key Type Drill Chuck with 33 Jacobs Taper Mount 2011 Deals

Nov 13, 2011 01:15:35

Black Friday 1/32
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1/32

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Black Friday 1/32"-1/2" VME Key Type Drill Chuck with 33 Jacobs Taper Mount Feature

  • Capacity: 1/32"-1/2"
  • 33 Jacobs Taper


Black Friday 1/32"-1/2" VME Key Type Drill Chuck with 33 Jacobs Taper Mount Overview

Premium Quality Import - With Key. fits onto a 33 Jacobs Taper arbor or spindle.



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This Black Friday 1/32"-1/2" VME Key Type Drill Chuck with 33 Jacobs Taper Mount ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

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Limited Offer Today!! 1/32"-1/2" VME Key Type Drill Chuck with 33 Jacobs Taper Mount Black Friday and Cyber Monday 2011 Deals

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